Welcome back to Cool Beans! Winter’s got me on a cozy food kick, and nothing hits that spot for me quite like a sandwich. Grilled cheese has its moments, but what I really crave is a handheld with texture, like, for example, the delicious contrasts of a Japanese-style katsu sandwich. In it, fluffy bread, crunchy cabbage, and a crispy pork cutlet (tonkatsu) exist in harmony, while a sweet, zingy sauce holds it all together.
Of course I’m going meatless and swapping the pork for a slab of fried tofu. But to really nail the cutlet texture—and avoid a soggy sandwich—I’m also deploying one of my favorite tofu tricks: freezing. Tofu contains a lot of water, and freezing it causes all those ice crystals to expand. What’s left behind is a flavor sponge that’s chewier, meatier, and holds its shape perfectly in a sandwich.
The final frying flourish for making a perfect tofu katsu is using mayo instead of plain old eggs to adhere the breadcrumbs to the tofu slabs. The creaminess helps bind the panko to the tofu better and the extra fat creates a supremely golden crust. I mean, let’s just take minute to appreciate this crunch…
All that’s left to round out the sando is thinly sliced cabbage for some fresh crunch, a swipe of mayo (if you like), and tonkatsu sauce. You can buy the Japanese-style barbecue sauce, but it’s easy to make a quick version that hits all the sweet, salty, and umami notes with just a few pantry staples. When it comes to the bread, the fluffier the better: Milk bread is traditional, but brioche or white sandwich bread will do. If you decide to trim off the crusts—as you’d do in a classic katsu sandwich—freeze ’em for future breadcrumbs or croutons.
Tofu Katsu Sandwich
Yield: 2 sandwiches