Hey team, welcome back to Cool Beans. Winter is over, and the beige diet that goes along with it is giving way to a colorful spring awakening. Early-season veggies are glorious, yet elusive (I’m looking at you, ramps and fiddleheads), but if the season were casting a mascot, I’d nominate the humble pea. These little guys can brighten up any dish with bursts of freshness and color—plus they’ve got 8 grams of protein per cup.
Even when the fresh ones are putting their best little faces forward, though, I’m on Team Freezer Greens. Peas are the cream of the icebox crop; they’re flash-frozen at their peak, while fresh ones can start to lose their luster after a day or two, because their sugars immediately start converting to starch as soon as they’re plucked from the vine. Frozen peas stay green and crisp for a whole year in the chiller, and I’d bet that most of you have a forgotten bag in there somewhere.
Ready to give peas a chance? Today’s dispatch is dedicated to the vibrant veggie, and I’ve got a couple ideas for how to use up that entire frozen bag—or fresh ones if you’ve got ’em. I’m starting with a soup that serves double duty as a home for leftover veggies, then moving on to a no-cook recipe that will make even the fussiest eaters gobble up those little greenies.
The review: A zingy spring soup that leaves nothing to waste
Want the secret to a really good pea soup that doesn’t involve ham hocks? Take a cue from bestselling cookbook author Julia Turshen’s Spring Pea Soup with Leeks and Herbs. Turshen uses every part of the herbs and leeks to create an aromatic broth for the peas to simmer in. It’s meant to be eaten hot or cold, so no matter what the temps are in your part of the world, this zippy soup is calling your name.
Typically when I’m making soup, quite a lot of trimmings go straight to my compost bucket in the prep phase—especially when leeks are involved. But this dish extracts flavor from those typically excess bits, from the outer layers and roots to the dark green tops, and even calls for the stems of basil, parsley, and mint. All this steeps for 30 minutes to create a broth that tastes like it took hours to make. Once that’s done, all that’s left is to sauté the leek whites until soft, dump in the warm broth and peas, let it cool a bit, then add in the leafy bits of the herbs and purée until smooth.
Check out Julia’s recipe for spring-y pea soup at Saveur
This soup tastes great either hot or cold, so it’s perfect for late March’s weird in-between season weather. This recipe is also proof-positive that you don’t need to buy veggie stock to make a great soup—just water and some scraps. Since frozen peas have a permanent home in my freezer, I can whip this up anytime based on whatever bits I’ve got. When I made it this week, for instance, I tossed in some languishing kale I needed to use up.
Need more frozen pea fodder? Quit saving that bag for future bumps and bruises and try one of these zippy recipes:
Toss ’em in some pasta salad or risotto.
Fry them up into fritters.
Turn them into curry for these Indian sliders.
Braise them for a simple side dish.
Mash them on toast.
Guac-ify them.
Wanna watch those peas disappear in a snap—or hide them from picky eaters? It doesn’t get any easier than this week’s recipe, which comes together in less than 2 minutes.
The recipe: An easy, peas-y pesto
You don’t have to have pounds of herbs to make a good pesto. A whole bag of frozen peas with just a hint of herby goodness does the trick. This one is nut-free too, but still packs a protein punch from the peas. If you want to up the macros, throw in a handful of whatever nuts you’ve got. Schmear this vibrant pesto on toast or toss it with hot pasta. Use it as a dip for veggies or serve it with crispy roasted potatoes. Stir some into a veggie soup or swirl it through scrambled eggs for a pop of color and freshness.
Blitzing peas into pesto is also a great method for extending the life of fresh peas if you happen to bring some home. Unlike frozen peas, which are flash-steamed before they go into the chiller, you’ll have to precook freshies first. Boil them for 1-3 minutes, or until they float, or zap ’em in the microwave with a couple tablespoons of water, covered, for 3 to 4 minutes.
Minty Pea Pesto
Yield: 1 ½ cups