The secret to wilt-proof summer salads

An ode to the box grater

Welcome back to another ovens-off edition of Cool Beans! July’s just about over, but our commitment to no-cook cookery is not, which is why I’m dedicating today’s recipe to one of my favorite underrated kitchen tools. It’s cheap, easy to find, and pretty grate (😉) at making salads more fun to eat—and also super filling. 

A box grater is my secret for making next-level lunches by turning even dense vegetables into pretty ribbons and strands that are delicious to eat raw. Sure you could use a food processor to do the same thing, but the box grater is cheaper, easier to clean, and requires no assembly. It’s got two sides for shredding, one for slicing, and one for grating. It’s a star at shredding tofu for quick stir-frys, grating tomatoes for some summery Spanish tomato toast (pan con tomate), or readying veggies for anything from hash browns to carrot cake.

In the hot-as-hell months, though, I turn to the box grater the most when I want to throw together a quick salad that doesn’t revolve around leafy (prone to wilting) greens. Certain roots and veggies, like beets and carrots, are hearty enough to be the main ingredient, and they hold up really well in heat. These bowls of not-greens also get better as they sit, so they’re perfect for meal prepping or packing for a picnic. My favorite version is one of those recipes you could easily make for yourself, but the finished product can be impressive enough to make for a dinner party. 

A greater grater salad

Credit: Gabriella Vigoreaux

Around this time last summer, I was on vacation in (very hot) Paris, where I discovered the absurdly simple salad known as salade de carottes râpée—aka grated carrot salad. It was served at every cafe and bistro I went to, and I ended up buying it twice from the supermarket next to my Airbnb to pair with a hunk of bread for lunch. I’ve made several iterations since, but my all-star is spiced with cinnamon, cumin, and harissa paste for some heat. It’s full of texture and pockets of sweetness thanks to pistachios and medjool dates. 

To make this more filling—and in the sad absence of a fresh baguette—I like to serve it on a bed of butter bean hummus. It helps transform the dish from a simple side salad to a proper meal. I also like to toss in leftover quinoa whenever I have it. I love the chewy texture and extra protein it adds, but since it involves boiling water (no, thanks!) I consider it totally optional. If you happen to have some, add it. If not, the salad will still taste great. 

Carrot-Beet Salad with Dates and Pistachios

Yield: 4 to 6 servings